Stinky tofu from Tofu King
626 Night Market in Arcadia is an outdoor extravaganza of Asian food vendors. 2012 was the event's first year and more than 100,000 people attended. This year, you only have three more opportunities to visit: tonight, August 3 and August 4.
LA's only Asian night market and the largest Asian night market in United States takes place at the Santa Anita Race Track in the San Gabriel Valley from 4pm until midnight. There are more than 80 Asian street food vendors and 70 local merchandise vendors. Parking is free and plentiful; admission is $2 before 6pm and $3 after (children 12 and under are free).
First, let's discuss the stinky tofu. You know how when you're near a fast food restaurant, the delicious smell of fried food fills the air? Now change that smell to something lilke the smell of the funkiest, stinkiest cheese you can imagine. That is what you will experience from the several booths selling fermented tofu at 626 Night Market. I had never eaten it before, or even heard of it. Based on the smell, I had trouble convincing myself to eat it. But I will try almost any unfamiliar food as long as it isn't something like organ meats or other animal innards.
I wasn't sure which vendor to buy it from since there were no lines yet and lines are a sign of a good vendor. After two hours of preparing my stomach for stinky tofu by filling it with more familiar foods, I was ready. The place I was initially hesitant to try now had a line, but I overheard people complaining about the wait for their food. This was probably the place to go to, but I have little patience for food lines. So I tried a place with a very small sign that had no English menu, but I asked them what they were selling and they said stinky tofu and I bought some. They only sold the fried kind, which the girl in line behind me told me was better than the other, steamed variation. It looked and tasted like regular fried tofu, cut into triangles, but with larger holes in the tofu. It came on top of a bed of sweet kimchi and topped with a very salty, flaming red chili sauce. I think maybe I didn't get the stinkiest tofu available so I'll have to try again next time.
We went on July 6 and arrived around 4:30. Only a couple of food vendors had long lines. We were able to walk right up to the Kogi truck, where we tried the beef, pork, and chicken tacos ($10). We also tried fried yam balls ($4). I would pass on those next time; they were a bit too chewy and didn't have much flavor. They would have been better with a sweet dipping sauce. I also tried the chicken adobo ($3), which was tasty and probably one of the most filling things at the market, especially for its price. The shave ice ($3) was also a good deal. The ice melted in your mouth and they had some interesting flavors--we got horchata and root beer with sweetened condensed milk drizzle. The mac and cheese grilled cheese ($6.47) wasn't as exciting as we hoped--it was good, but I wouldn't wait in line for it. At least it was a full-sized sandwich; we were afraid it might be a miniature version since food trucks aren't known for their generous portions. This vendor also charges tax (presumably, the other vendors build the tax into their prices), so you'll end up with an odd amount of change in your pocket.
If I'd had more space in my stomach or the patience to wait in line, I would have liked to try a Japanese pancake and some skewered grilled meats. I wanted to try the Hong Kong waffles, too, but couldn't find the booth.
Macaroni and cheese grilled cheese from the Grilled Cheese Truck
There were several food trucks: the Grilled Cheese Truck, Kogi (Korean BBQ), Ludo Truck (fried chicken), Phantom (Chinese-American fusion), Slummin' Gourmet (bistro fare), Hale'iwa (shave ice), Fluff Ice, Lobsta Truck (lobster and crab rolls) and Waffles de Liege. These provide good food options for anyone you want to come to 626 Night Market with you who says they don't like Asian food. (Don't get me started on how someone can categorically dismiss the various cuisines of multiple countries in one fell swoop, but some people just like to stick with what they know).
Kogi truck tacos
At the numerous booths, which are set up sort of like farmers market stalls, you can find boba, fried tofu balls, fish balls, sausages, doner kebab, cake truffles, candy, macarons, Korean BBQ, musabi, sugar cane juice, aguas frescas served in a whole pineapple, a spiral of fried potato slices on a stick, Burmese food, Filipino food, fried bananas, beer and liquor, funnel cake, ban xeo (Vietnamese crepes), kettle corn, baked goods and so many other things.
-Arrive at 4:00. By the time we left at 7:00, it was so crowded we could barely walk down the aisles, the food lines were growing, and the folks just arriving had very long walks from their parking spaces.
-Park near a landmark like a hedge or a fence and pay attention to where you park so you can find your car later in the massive parking lot.
-They have real bathrooms, but they are small. Bring one of those travel packs of Kleenex because there might not be any toilet paper left.
-Expect to spend $20-$30 per person to try food from four to six vendors.
-When you see something you want to try, buy it right then--don't plan to come back later. The market is huge and by the time you find your way back to the thing you wanted to try it will probably have a longer line. Don't wander the whole event scouting out the best food before you try anything. Just dive in.
-Buy a cold drink early on. You're in a valley. It's hot. You can find cold bottled water and cans of soda for as little as $1.
-Plan to eat standing up. This is a food festival. There is only one area with tables (near the restrooms). You aren't going to walk over there every time you buy some food.
-Bring friends so you can try more food!
-Some of the food is overpriced. Get over it and just buy it if you want to try it.
-Trying to navigate a stroller or wheelchair through the market is a nightmare after about 6pm when it starts getting crowded. If you use one of these, arrive at 4.
-Be patient. After you wait in line to order your food, you'll also have to wait a while for it to be prepared.
Event Info: 626 Night Market
June 8-9, 2013
July 6-7, 2013
August 3-4, 2013
Santa Anita Race Track
Front Paddock Gardens
285 W. Huntington Drive
Arcadia, CA 91007
(Gates 3 or 5 off Huntington Drive; Gate 8 off Baldwin Avenue)